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Fragrances - UK - August 2015

Published By :

Mintel

Published Date : Aug 2015

Category :

Fragrances

No. of Pages : N/A

The category as a whole has shown incremental growth in value in the past, and, despite a decline predicted in 2015, is likely to show growth again in the future. Improved financial situations and savvy shopping behaviours are driving down the value of the mass fragrance and body sprays segments as consumers prove more willing and able to trade up to prestige versions – albeit also at a discounted rate. Niche and artisan fragrances have the ability to drive growth further as buyers seek out more unusual scents, whilst the emergence of unisex fragrances that challenge gender expectations could further pique interest in the category.

Overview

What you need to know
Products covered in this report
Excluded

Executive Summary

Fragrances driven by prestige sales
Figure 1: Best- and worst-case forecast for UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, 2010-20
The rise of niche fragrances
Figure 2: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, by sector, 2013-14
Unisex fragrances see a rise in launch activity
Figure 3: New product development in the fragrances category*, by sub-category, January 2012-June 2015
Use of fragrances drops with age
Figure 4: Usage of any fragrance, by gender and age, June 2015
Women purchase for themselves, men buy for their partners
Figure 5: Purchase for self vs partner, by gender, June 2015
Brand name is more important when buying for others
Figure 6: Factors influencing purchase, June 2015
What we think

Issues and Insights

New unisex launches challenge gender expectations
The facts
The implications
Skin concerns could deter users
The facts
The implications
Stimulating the senses to market products
The facts
The implications
Niche fragrances offer stiff competition in prestige fragrances
The facts
The implications

The Market – What You Need to Know

Savvy shopping behaviours impact the value of the market
Niche fragrances boost prestige segment
Men’s segments fare well
Department stores drive experiences
Improved financial situations boost accessibility of fine fragrance
Changing population dynamics could impact the market

Market Size and Forecast

Decline in total market in 2015…
Figure 7: UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, 2010-20
…but outlook to 2020 is more positive
Figure 8: Best- and worst-case forecast for UK retail value sales of fragrances and body sprays, 2010-20
Fragrances to show growth
Sales of body sprays struggle

Segment Performance

Prestige segments benefit from rise in income and artisan fragrances
Figure 9: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, by sector, 2012-15
Men’s fragrances and body sprays see a rise
Figure 10: UK retail value sales of body sprays, by sector, 2013-14
Body sprays struggle to show growth

Channels to Market

Department stores create experiences to draw shoppers
Figure 11: UK retail values sales of fragrances only, by outlet type, 2013-14
Figure 12: UK retail values sales of body sprays, by outlet type, 2013-14
Savvy shopping behaviours drives online channel
Ease of purchase drives online channel in the US
Drugstores harness sales from seasonal events
Own-label perfumes could provide competition

Market Drivers

Decline in young adults could impact celebrity fragrances
Figure 13: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, by gender, 2010-20
Prestige market could see boost from rise in employment
Figure 14: Employment and unemployment, 2010-20
Scented toiletries could impact the market
Figure 15: Usage of hand and body care products, April 2015
Allergy concerns
Figure 16: Purchase of natural/organic toiletries, September 2014

Key Players – What You Need to Know

Brand perception influenced by age
Black Friday marks a new advertising occasion
Sensorial advertising campaigns drive growth of leading brands
Unisex fragrances see a rise in launch activity

Brand Research

Brand map
Figure 17: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, July 2015
Key brand metrics
Figure 18: Key metrics for selected brands, July 2015
Brand attitudes: Designer labels more closely associated with quality
Figure 19: Attitudes, by brand, July 2015
Brand personality: Dolce & Gabbana has a particularly exclusive image
Figure 20: Brand personality – Macro image, July 2015
Brand personality: FCUK seen as a youthful, quirky brand
Figure 21: Brand personality – Micro image, July 2015
Brand analysis
Hugo Boss performs particularly strongly
Figure 22: User profile of Hugo Boss, July 2015
Calvin Klein’s combination of quality and accessibility drives usage
Figure 23: User profile of Calvin Klein, July 2015
Ghost has potential to grow beyond its current level
Figure 24: User profile of Ghost, July 2015
Paco Rabanne appears to be increasing its standing among women
Figure 25: User profile of Paco Rabanne, July 2015
Dolce & Gabbana performs well, but exclusivity may limit usage and recommendation
Figure 26: User profile of Dolce & Gabbana, July 2015
FCUK’s youthful image may detract from quality associations
Figure 27: User profile of FCUK, July 2015
Britney Spears Fragrances may earn usage from value association
Figure 28: User profile of Britney Spears Fragrances, July 2015
Justin Bieber Fragrances is seen in a particularly negative light
Figure 29: User profile of Justin Bieber Fragrances, July 2015

Brand Communication and Promotion

Christmas drives end-of-year advertising
Figure 30: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, January 2012-June 2015
Black Friday marks a new advertising occasion
Investment in outdoor advertising increases
Figure 31: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, by media type, January 2012-June 2015
Customisable adverts
Sensorial advertising on the increase
The power of celebrity
Dior increases advertising in 2014
Figure 32: Recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on fragrances and body sprays, by top advertisers, January 2013-June 2015
Coverage/methodology clarification

Launch Activity and Innovation

Decline in NPD in 2013 may be due to impending EU changes
Figure 33: New product development in the fragrances category*, by launch type, January 2012-June 2015
New products see a rise
Rise of unisex fragrances
Figure 34: Examples of unisex fragrance launches, 2014-15
Figure 35: Examples of unisex fragrance launches which appear gender-targeted, 2014
Figure 36: Examples of unisex fragrances launches from Comme des Garçons, which appear gender-targeted, 2014
Figure 37: New product development in the fragrances category*, by sub-category, January 2012-June 2015
Free-from claims increase
Figure 38: New product development in the fragrances category*, by top claims for 2014, January 2013-June 2015
Figure 39: Alternative format launches in the free-from sector, 2014
Niche brands drive aromatherapy claims
Figure 40: Examples of fragrance launches with aromatherapy qualities, 2014-15
Packaging goes beyond bottle shape
Figure 41: Examples of evocative packaging for fragrance launches, 2014-15
Fragmented category
Figure 42: New product development in the fragrances category*, by top ultimate companies, 2014
Celebrity launches continue
Figure 43: Examples of celebrity fragrance launches, 2014
Figure 44: Examples of celebrity fragrance launches, cont., 2014
Body sprays sees own-label launches
Figure 45: Examples of own-label body spray launches, 2014

Market Share

Leading fragrance manufacturers fare well
Figure 46: Manufacturer’s shares in fragrances only, June 2014-June 2015
Unilever shows the smallest decline in body sprays
Figure 47: Manufacturer’s shares in body sprays only, June 2014-June 2015

The Consumer – What You Need to Know

Fragrance and scented toiletry usage declines with age
Women are more likely to be fragrance users
Fragrance notes trigger different perceptions
Gifting to mums over dads
Brand name is biggest influencer
Driving the shopping experience
Personalisation offers opportunities
Allergen issues

Usage of Fragrances

Fragrance usage declines with age
Figure 48: Usage of perfumes/colognes by gender, June 2014
Women’s heightened smell
Figure 49: Usage of any fragrance, by gender and age, June 2015
Women look for on-the-go products
Use of scented toiletries also declines with age
Figure 50: Usage of scented toiletries by gender, June 2014
Young people have a greater repertoire
Figure 51: Repertoire of fragrances used, by age, June 2015

Fragrance Perceptions

Methodology
Floral is romantic, but oriental is sensual
Figure 52: Examples of flower-themed fragrance gift sets, 2015
Figure 53: Correspondence analysis – Associations with fragrance types, June 2015
Woody fragrances are adventurous
Figure 54: Examples of fragrance launches with woody accents, 2015
Figure 55: Associations with fragrance types, June 2015
Fresh notes are clean

Purchase of Fragrances

Purchase amongst men is high
Figure 56: Purchase/gifting of fragrances, June 2015
Women buy for themselves, whilst men buy for partners
Figure 57: Purchase for self vs partner, by gender, June 2015
Gifting for life occasions
Mums over Dads
Single fragrances are most popular
Figure 58: Purchase of single fragrances, June 2015
Gift sets are popular
Figure 59: Purchase of fragrance gifts, June 2015
The power of a brand name
Figure 60: Factors influencing purchase, June 2015
Older millennials less influenced by brand name
Money is important
Packaging is more important when buying for others

Attitudes towards Fragrances

Personalising fragrance strength
Figure 61: Attitudes towards fragrances, June 2015
Improving the shopping experience
Desire for natural

Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information

Data sources
Abbreviations
Fan chart forecast
Brand research
Brand map
Correspondence analysis

Appendix – The Market

Figure 62: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, 2010-20
Figure 63: UK retail value sales of fragrances only, 2010-20
Figure 64: UK retail value sales of body sprays only, 2010-20
Figure 65: UK retail value sales of body sprays only, 2010-20

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