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BLACK HAIRCARE - US - SEPTEMBER 2018

Published By :

Mintel

Published Date : Sep 2018

Category :

Hair Care

No. of Pages : N/A

The Black haircare market has adjusted to the new natural hair normal. Product innovation, expanded retail distribution, and brand messaging recognize that the future of the Black haircare market is dependent on chemical-free consumers. While natural hair is the norm, Black consumers have different attitudes, beauty standards, and motivations behind their style and product choices.

Table of contents
OVERVIEW
What you need to know
Definition
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
Overview
Figure 1: Estimated total expenditures and forecast, by Black consumers, by segment, at current prices, 2013-23
The issues and opportunities
Multifunctional conditioners drive Black-targeted brand sales
Figure 2: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
Updated consumer segments show differences among natural consumers
Figure 3: Female and male Black haircare segments, July 2018
Mainstream retailers expand product mix in store and online to attract Black shoppers
Figure 4: Haircare shopping locations, April 2016 vs July 2018
Black consumers want products that do it all
Figure 5: Haircare trends of interest, July 2018
Looking beautiful is the goal, and consumers make different choices to achieve it
Figure 6: Self-perceptions and attitudes toward hair, July 2018
What it means
THE MARKET – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Haircare sales estimates are flat vs year ago, still a tale of two consumers
Product collection sales demonstrate growing preference for targeted over mainstream brands
Relaxer sales expected to fall to hair color totals, cementing its niche status
Unilever latest global brand to acquire a Black consumer targeted company
MARKET SIZE AND FORECAST
Flat sales and forecast reflect category shifts and retail expansion
Figure 7: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 8: Estimated expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
MARKET BREAKDOWN
Haircare systems continue to grow among Black consumers
Figure 9: Expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products by segment, at current prices, 2016-18
Shampoo sales signal increased competition between mainstream to Black haircare brands
Figure 10: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 11: Unilever/Suave video on Essence.com, June 2017-June 2018
Figure 12: Garnier Whole Blends shampoo and conditioner, Essence Magazine July/August 2018 issue
Conditioner expenditures reflect multifunctional use of targeted brands
Figure 13: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2013-23
Styling products still rule, but specific functionality drives usage
Figure 14: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2013-23
Disappearing brands – and consumers contribute to falling relaxer sales
Figure 15: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2013-23
Innovative looks drive increase in hair color – for now
Figure 16: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2013-23
MARKET TRENDS
Natural haircare brands integrate into entertainment content
MARKET FACTORS
Unilever re-enters the Black haircare market with Sundial acquisition
Figure 17: SheaMoisture Empower women :15 video, June 2017-June 2018
KEY PLAYERS – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Conditioners and styling products remain Black consumers’ favorites
Sundial is the sales leader across basic maintenance segments
L’Oréal brands experienced the greatest market share decline vs YA
Cantu steady sales growth set to move up rank in market share
E-commerce growing in importance for small brands and online retailers
Small brands’ marketing efforts cannibalize sales from major players
BLACK HAIRCARE COMPANY MANUFACTURER SALES
Products that treat and set hairstyles experience greatest growth
Figure 18: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
SheaMoisture remains the leading brand, but smaller players cannibalize sales
Figure 19: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
SheaMoisture leads shampoo category sales, but experiences share declines
Figure 20: Multi-outlet sales of shampoo, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
Multi-functional conditioners that treat and style hair continue to grow
Figure 21: Carol’s Daughter online video featuring founder Lisa Price, June 2017-June 2018
Figure 22: Multi-outlet sales of conditioner, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
Cantu’s new product introductions pay off in increased market share
Figure 23: Multi-outlet sales of styling products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
Figure 24: PDC/Cantu long-form video tutorials, July 2018-August 2018
Relaxer users turn to gentler formulas as a better for you alternative
Figure 25: Multi-outlet sales of relaxers, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
Vivid colors and gentler formulas drive hair color purchases
Figure 26: Multi-outlet sales of hair color, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
Figure 27: Softsheen/Carson, Dark and Lovely, Color Gloss video, June 2017-June 2018
Figure 28: Softsheen/Carson, Dark and Lovely, Go Intense video, June 2017-June 2018
WHAT’S WORKING?
E-commerce offers access to small brands with limited in-store distribution
Figure 29: Amazon.com Textures and Hues shop launch ad, Essence Magazine, April 2018
Sundial brands forms partnerships with small brands to reach grassroots beauty consumers
WHAT’S STRUGGLING?
Falling relaxer sales shutter brands
Figure 30: Multi-outlet sales of relaxer brands, by declining companies/brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
WHAT’S NEXT?
Smaller players cannibalize sales from major brands
Figure 31: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by growing Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
Figure 32: Mielle Organics styling products and hair growth vitamins, 2018
Figure 33: Mielle Organics print ad featuring the founder, Monique Rodriguez, Essence magazine, September 2018
Figure 34: Curls styling products, 2017
Figure 35: Curls online display advertising, Cashmere + Caviar collection launch, July 2018-August 2018
Figure 36: Curls print ad, Cashmere + Caviar collection launch and featuring founder Mahisha Dellinger, Essence September 2018
Figure 37: The Mane Choice online display ad, June 2017-June 2018
Cannabis and hemp-infused products for natural hair
THE CONSUMER – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Updated haircare segmentation highlights differences among natural consumers
Natural consumers’ hair versatility allows them to experiment with more styles
Black women use an average of 4.5 haircare products at home
Expanded product selection in neighborhood stores lead to shopping location shifts
Multifunctional products preferred over style trends
Healthy hair is beautiful hair, but beauty standards and self-perception drive style and product choices
BLACK HAIRCARE CONSUMER SEGMENTS
Female haircare segments
“Natural” definition and practice expands across Black women
Figure 38: Black Female Haircare Segmentation, July 2018
Situations that honor Natural Nina’s self-image and beliefs will foster engagement
Figure 39: Demographic profile of Natural Nina segment, July 2018
Trendy Tonya seeks styles that transform her look away from the ordinary
Figure 40: Demographic Profile of Trendy Tonya segment, July 2018
Relaxed Regina wants simple, everyday style that matches her conservative mindset
Figure 41: Demographic profile of Relaxed Regina segment, July 2018
Adventurous Ashley is willing and able to change her style at whim
Figure 42: Demographic profile of Adventurous Ashley segment, July 2018
Male haircare segments
Most men opt for basic style, but maintenance and grooming vary by segment
Figure 43: Black male haircare segmentation, July 2018
Handsome Henry’s style reflects his disposition toward decorum
Figure 44: Demographic profile of Handsome Henry segment, July 2018
Stylish Steve is willing to be daring in his looks
Figure 45: Demographic profile of Stylish Steve segment, July 2018
Classic Carl’s no-fuss approach requires little maintenance beyond ensuring hair health
Figure 46: Demographic profile of Classic Carl segment, July 2018
BLACK HAIR TEXTURE CATEGORIZATION
Nearly half of Black consumers have coiled hair
Figure 47: Haircare texture categorization, July 2018
Fewer women relative to men report having zig-zag hair texture
Figure 48: Haircare texture categorization, by gender, July 2018
HAIRSTYLES WORN WITHIN THE PAST YEAR
Most consumers maintain a consistent look
Figure 49: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by anytime and current to past three months, July 2018
Young women crave variety in their hairstyles, mature women value consistency
Figure 50: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by female haircare segments, July 2018
Young men are adopting hairstyles outside of traditional fades
Figure 51: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by male haircare segment, July 2018
Natural hair wearers who regularly style their hair more open to all looks
Figure 52: Hairstyles worn within last 12 months, by natural hairstyles worn within last 12 months, July 2018
Weave, wig, and braid styles protect natural hair underneath
Figure 53: Hairstyles worn within last 12 months, by non-natural hairstyles worn within last 12 months, July 2018
HAIRCARE PRODUCT USAGE AT HOME
Styling products offer brands the opportunity to differentiate
Figure 54: Haircare product usage at home, July 2018
Most women use at least five products to achieve her style
Figure 55: Count of haircare product usage at home, by gender, July 2018
Social media and influencers drive young women to use more product
Figure 56: Haircare product usage at home, by gender and age, July 2018
Natural hair wearers use the greatest number of products
Figure 57: Count of haircare product usage at home, by hairstyle worn within the past 12 months, July 2018
Figure 58: Haircare product usage at home, by hairstyle worn within the past 12 months, July 2018
HAIRCARE SHOPPING LOCATIONS
Low prices and brand availability drive product purchase
Figure 59: Haircare shopping locations, April 2016 vs July 2018
Figure 60: SheaMoisture/local beauty supply Facebook display advertising, August 2018
Heavy product users drive loyalty to fewer shopping locations
Figure 61: Haircare shopping locations by number of products used, July 2018
Prevent style chasers from comparison shopping in multiple locations
Figure 62: Haircare shopping locations, by female segments, July 2018
HAIR SELF-PERCEPTIONS
Validate Black consumers’ state of mind when they feel they look their best
Figure 63: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, any rank and top five out of eleven ranked by gender, July 2018
Amplify what drives women’s beauty through their hair
Figure 64: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, top three by female segments, July 2018
Recognize Black men’s lifestage when showcasing their style
Figure 65: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, top three by male segments, July 2018
HAIRCARE TRENDS OF INTEREST
Products that simultaneously treat and style most desired
Figure 66: Word cloud of top three out of seven preferred functions in an ideal haircare product, August 2018
Figure 67: Haircare trends of interest, July 2018
Young women more likely to experiment with styles, Gen Xers look for convenience
Figure 68: Haircare trends of interest, by females and age group, July 2018
Multifunctional products and collections are greens fees for testing hairstyle methods
Figure 69: Haircare trends of interest, by female segment, July 2018
Young men open to weaves to wear desired styles unachievable with their own hair
Figure 70: Haircare trends of interest, by males and age group, July 2018
ATTITUDES TOWARD HAIR
Healthy hair mindset drives styling and product choices
Figure 71: Attitudes toward hair, July 2018
Being healthy is a lifestyle for some, and translates to styling differences among segments
Figure 72: Attitudes toward hair, by female haircare segments, July 2018
Easy, go-to hairstyles are equally important to maintaining health
Figure 73: Attitudes toward hair, by male haircare segments, July 2018
APPENDIX – DATA SOURCES AND ABBREVIATIONS
Data sources
Sales data
Fan chart forecast
Consumer survey data
Consumer qualitative research
Abbreviations and terms
Abbreviations
Terms
APPENDIX – THE MARKET
Figure 74: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 75: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, at inflation adjusted prices, 2013-23
Figure 76: Estimated expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 77: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2016 and 2018
Figure 78: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 79: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
Figure 80: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 81: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
Figure 82: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 83: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
Figure 84: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 85: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
Figure 86: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2013-23
Figure 87: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23

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